"They write with knowledge and enthusiasm, but maintain the perspective that allows them to see the follies of the food world. Ruth Reichl, for instance, is a 'Prodigiously maned gastro-sensualist and writer, known for a trilogy of memoirs...that chart her Zelig-like journey through various food-mad locales...as they experienced their signal moments in America's culinary coming of age. Though prone to onanistic, self-aggrandizing prose and batty flights of fancy-- wearing unnecessarily elaborate disguises while visiting restaurants, frequently invoking her dead mother as a speaking character in reviews--Reichl has more than creditably served as editor of Gourmet since 1999.'"
Jonathan Beecher Field and Amy Monaghan review David Kamp and Marion Rosenfeld's The Food Snob's Dictionary: An Essential Lexicon of Gastronomical Knowledge in Salon.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Snob's Sight
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