Saturday, October 13, 2007

Snob's Sight

"They write with knowledge and enthusiasm, but maintain the perspective that allows them to see the follies of the food world. Ruth Reichl, for instance, is a 'Prodigiously maned gastro-sensualist and writer, known for a trilogy of memoirs...that chart her Zelig-like journey through various food-mad locales...as they experienced their signal moments in America's culinary coming of age. Though prone to onanistic, self-aggrandizing prose and batty flights of fancy-- wearing unnecessarily elaborate disguises while visiting restaurants, frequently invoking her dead mother as a speaking character in reviews--Reichl has more than creditably served as editor of Gourmet since 1999.'"

Jonathan Beecher Field and Amy Monaghan review David Kamp and Marion Rosenfeld's The Food Snob's Dictionary: An Essential Lexicon of Gastronomical Knowledge in Salon.

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