"'You have to remember that restaurants had a very different function in people's lives 30 years ago,' Reichl said to me over the phone. 'They were much more special occasion places. LeRoy's genius was knowing that people really wanted to go out for something that did not resemble their homes at all. And they loved the outrageousness of it, the theater of it. He did it like a Hollywood bar mitzvah, a Long Island wedding, that kind of celebration. It was very unabashed. And even if you knew it was awful, you'd walk past all those glittering lights in the garden and think, "I want to be in there."'"
Francis Lam in Salon laments the closing of Tavern on the Green.
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